Climber’s Guide to Oregon: Top 10 Destinations for Every Skill Level
Welcome to the magnificent wilds of Oregon, a climber’s wonderland. Known for its diverse landscapes, ranging from craggy coastlines to high alpine peaks, our incredible state offers climbing experiences to suit every level of skill and courageousness. Whether novice or seasoned pro, adventure calls in the form of spires, boulders, and majestic cliff faces. Here are the top 10 climbing destinations in Oregon that you simply must conquer.1. Smith Rock State Park
As the birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith Rock is practically hallowed ground. Situated near Redmond, this unique state park boasts over a thousand climbing routes. Experienced climbers know Misery Ridge Trail for its notorious sheer-faced Monkey Face route. If you’re new to the game, trust the friendly local guides from Smith Rock Climbing School to show you the ropes.2. Skinner Butte
You can’t miss this gem, right in the heart of downtown Eugene. Skinner Butte is an urban climber’s playground. The basalt columns on Riverfront Park provide routes suitable for beginners. There’s even a dedicated outdoor climbing section filled with climbing challenges of various difficulties, an ideal place to hone your skills.3. Wolf Rock
Home to the largest monolith in Oregon, located in the Willamette National Forest, Wolf Rock is a journey you’ll remember. Its stunning 360-degree panoramic views are worth every penny of the permit fee. Don’t forget to stop by the nearby McKenzie River Ranger Station to secure your pass before you set out.
4. French’s Dome
Nestled in Mt. Hood National Forest, French’s Dome is great for intermediate climbers. The volcanic basalt formation with over 20 bolted routes offers a delightful day of climbing. Fair warning, it can get busy during summer weekends, best to hit the trail early or choose a weekday for your adventure.5. Broughton Bluff
Just a short drive from Portland, Broughton Bluff in Lewis and Clark State Recreation Site is an enticing cliff line running above the Sandy River. It’s well-known for climbing routes tailored to diverse skill levels. The rock’s exposure on the sunniest of days calls for a trusty tube of Oregon-made Portland Bee Balm for post-climb chapped lips.6. Trout Creek
Not for the faint-hearted, Trout Creek offers over a hundred traditional climbing routes. The folded basalt puts it among the nation’s top crack climbing locations. Located near Madras, the peak season is fall and spring. Remember, it’s closed during summer months for Golden Eagle nesting.7. Pilot Rock
Standing proud in the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, Pilot Rock is a prominent feature visible from I-5. While the hike up to the base is somewhat strenuous, rewarded seductively with panoramic memorable views, the 25-foot vertical scramble to its peak is perfect for rookie climbers.8. Bandon Beach
For bouldering enthusiasts, Bandon Beach on the scenic Oregon coast is a must. Besides the Pacific vista and maze of beach boulders, you might find some local climbers willing to share beta on unsanctioned climbing problems. And who can turn down the chance for fresh crab at Tony’s Crab Shack after a hard day’s climb?9. Menagerie Wilderness
This area in the central Willamette National Forest gems like Rooster Rock and Rabbit Ears offer fantastic multi-pitch traditional climbing. With granite spires hidden by dense trees, it’s an unexpected slice of Yosemite. This is a place where a keen sense of direction and good old U.S. Forest Service map come in handy.10. The Columns at Skinner’s Butte Park
For those just starting, The Columns in Skinner’s Butte Park in Eugene provide an easily accessible climbing area with level climbs perfect for mastering basic skills. It’s also an excellent place to meet a thriving community of climbers who are always ready to share their wisdom.Journey on, fellow climbers. In the embrace of Oregon’s rugged wilderness, you’ll uncover not just incredible ascents but also a deeper connection to the wild heart of this beautiful state. Happy climbing, and remember – mountains aren’t just for viewing from the valley. They’re there to be climbed. Here’s to you, finding your peak!