Discovering Oregon’s Best-Kept Secret: The Alvord Desert
Oregon is something of a Mildred, that artsy friend of yours – always surprising you with something now and then. From Portland’s quirky charm to the windswept coasts of the Pacific, from the wine valleys of Willamette to the legend-haunted high-desert plains, it’s a place of stunning contrasts. But for me, the real essence of Oregon lies farther east where both Wi-Fi signals and city dwellers fear to tread: the Alvord Desert.
Distinct Geography
The Alvord Desert is unlike anything else you’ve marked on your “Been There, Done That” Oregonian map. Nestled in the southeastern corner of the state – a stone’s throw away from Nevada if your throwing arm’s got some muscle – it’s a surreal 12 x 7-mile sea of sunbaked white clay, hemmed in by the majestic Steens Mountain range. If you’re lucky, on one of those heaven-sent clear nights, you can see the eerie glow of the Vegas strip from atop the Steens.
A Journey Through Time
The journey begins long before you hit the desert. The wide open roads, so characteristic of the Harney County backcountry, slowly give way to the sagebrush-littered landscape of the High Desert. It’s akin to traveling back in time, where the Old West still whispers in the wind, and you half expect a cream-colored station wagon of The Oregon Trail gaming fame to pass you by.
Arrival at Alvord
When you finally hit the Alvord, boy, it’s an otherworldly experience. Unlike its more popular cousin, the Sahara, the Alvord is a dry playa, which means it’s parched for most of the year. At first glance, it’s like some cosmic giant took a boxful of baking soda and scattered it all across the landscape. But in its starkness, there’s an undeniable, raw beauty that captures the pioneering spirit of our great state.
A traditional past-time of Alvord visitors is to crisscross the flat, barren expanse at high speeds – preferably in a Chevrolet or Ford pickup, the local heros. The local BLM Rangers might chuckle at your city slicker ways, but they’ll also warmly remind you to respect the land.
A North Star for Stargazers
One of the Alvord Desert’s not-so-hidden treasures is the celestial spectacle it offers after sunset. With zero light pollution – no McMinnville neon signs or Beaver game night halogens to mess things up – the night sky at Alvord could give even Mauna Kea’s star-gazing sites a run for their money. The Milky Way, that cosmic river of stars, comes alive as poetry in motion, reminding you just how tiny we humans are in the grand scheme of the universe.
Steens Mountains and Local Landmarks
Bordering the Alvord Desert to the west, the Steens Mountains cut a majestic figure with their dramatic gorges and glacier-carved valleys. Keen hikers and horse-riders follow the scenic trails that wind through the Steens. Rumour has it that Bigfoot has been spotted enjoying a summer saunter around Kiger Gorge — but then, that might just be some field lilies playing tricks on those not used to the high desert sun!
The region is also a haven for local wildlife and bird enthusiasts. In the wetlands and grasslands that dot the landscape, you’ll find a flurry of birds unique to South Oregon — the peregrine falcon, sage grouse, and the golden eagle.
For a touch of civilization amidst the splendid isolation, there’s forever-welcoming Fields Station, offering a legendary stopover for travelers since 1881. Fields’ homemade milkshakes are an indulgence rivaling those of Portland’s iconic Burgerville, and they’ve probably been around a touch longer!
A Desert of Surprises
As an Oregonian, you’ll find yourself falling in love with the Alvord’s quiet surprises. Ever held a silence contest with the desert? Then, you likely haven’t truly marinated in Alvord’s intense quietude. You realize that silence is not the absence of sound, but a symphony in itself, starring the rustle of the rare desert breeze and the whisper of the shifting sands.
End With The Beginning
The Alvord Desert is one of those remarkable places that takes you back to the sheer wonder of nature, inspiring respect for the raw beauty that characterizes our great state of Oregon. It’s both an end and a beginning, a testament to Oregon’s soulful diversity and frontier resilience. This best-kept secret asks you to step out of your comfort zone, to truly take in the world in its raw, untouched grandeur.
As you stare out at the desert’s pristine expanse, something shifts within you. This, you realize, is why you’re an Oregonian. The beauty, the quirkiness, the extremes. So buckle up, and prepare to plunge into the Alvord. Because Oregon, my friend, is not just a state—it’s a state of mind.