A Toast to Adaptation: Climate Change and the Oregon Wine Industry
In Oregon, when talk turns to vineyards, there’s an undeniable reverence in the air. We treat the grape harvest with the same respect as a Beaver–Duck game or a weekend at Haystack Rock. Strolling through the vines at Willamette Valley’s Archery Summit Winery, or sipping a flawless pinot noir by Alexana Winery’s gentle sloping hills, you can almost hear the whisper of the grapes promising a delicious yield. But these beloved vines are not just indicators of a good vintage – they are the proverbial canaries in the coalmine of our local climate change story.
Climate change is like a relentless sun dog—one of those lingering, rainbow-like apparitions on the edges of the sun—tailing the Bend Ale Trail or the Astoria Megler Bridge. It’s that unwelcome guest tapping on the cellar door, questioning the very heart of Oregon’s wine industry.
Where Pinot Noir Thrives
Our state is home to some of the world’s greatest pinot noir—thanks to places like Ribbon Ridge AVA, a unique viticulture area in the northern part of Willamette Valley. The temperamental pinot noir thrives here because it loves the same things Oregonians do—those long days of summer sunshine we get after enduring our shroud of persistent, drizzly months.
A winemaker from Domaine Serene once described Oregon Pinot as the result of “a perfect marriage between the land and the weather,” a testament to the complex dance our industry plays with the elements. But these elements are changing.
A New Climate Story for Oregon Wines
In the Rogue Valley to the south or the cooler climes of Walla Walla Valley across the border, we’ve always prided ourselves on being able to work with what Mother Nature flings our way – be it her “liquid sunshine” or a surprise snowfall on Mt. Bachelor. But here’s the real zinger: our winemakers tell us that the temperamental pinot noir is showing signs of stress because Oregon is getting hotter…and drier.
University of Oregon studies, often the topic of discussion at McMinnville’s agricultural watering holes, show that rising temperatures are bringing earlier bud breaks. This might sound like a good thing, right? Earlier buds mean more time for the grapes to ripen. But this also exposes the buds to spring frost, an uninvited guest that can ruin an entire vintage.
The Wine Industry Responds
Our persistent spirit is coming to the fore, as Oregon’s wine industry rises to the challenge of climate change. Willamette Valley Vineyards, for instance, is practicing dry farming, reducing the amount of water they use to nurture their vines symbolically thumbing their nose at our increasingly warm and dry summers.
Out in the Columbia River Gorge AVA, many wineries are using vine canopies to create shade and protect grapes from overexposure, sunburn, and a phenomenon called “unbalanced ripening.” It’s just like how we Oregonians savvy up and take along an extra sunscreen or an umbrella as we head to the alluring Painted Hills or the iconic Powell’s Bookstore Festival in the middle of a parched high summer.
And there’s a growing interest in alternative grapes that can withstand warm weather – varieties with names as exotic as arneis and tempranillo, selections that could be the Trimet offering rides amidst an Uber invasion.
An Uncorked Future
Like the elusive Sasquatch or the Thunder Eggs down in Richardson’s Rock Ranch, climate change remains a mysterious presence in the Oregon wine narrative. As we grapple with its effects on our cherished vines at a local level, the world also watches how this also mirrors a global conversation on sustainable farming, agro-diversity, and humanity’s enduring bond with the land.
Given today’s trials, the romance of Oregon’s wines does not just lie solely in their tastes but also in the resilience of our winegrowers, their uncanny ability to read and adapt to the rhythms of the land, and their unwavering commitment to crafting unique, world-class wines, no matter what the weather throws at them.
So, let’s celebrate the resilience of the Oregon wine industry. As you stroll along the vineyard rows of Carlton or share a glass of pinot noir in an airy Dundee tasting room, let’s make a toast to the perseverance of our hearty grapevines and the dedication of Oregon’s winegrowers. Here’s to savoring a delicious manifestation of Oregon’s loamy soil, the magic of our microclimates, and most importantly, the unbeatable spirit of our people.
So come on – don’t you think it’s time to explore the ever-evolving tapestry of Oregon wines, rain or shine? After all, as is the local adage, in Oregon, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing choices.