A Local’s Guide to Oregon’s Treasured Rock Climbing Destinations for Every Skill Level
The beauty of Oregon is a well-known secret. It blooms in the lush forests, rolls along the mighty rivers, and loses itself in the expansive wilderness. But nowhere is it more breathtaking than from the top of our rock formations. Oregon is home to magnificent climbing spots suited to every level of skill – from beginner-friendly crags to expert-level sites that’ll test your mettle. This guide is about revealing these spots.
1. Smith Rock State Park
Dwarfed by Cascade peaks and overlooking the Deschutes, Smith Rock State Park is Oregon’s rock climbing mecca. The park boasts over a thousand climbing routes. For beginners, there’s the aptly named ‘Bunny Face’, an excellent place to become acquainted with the sport. For the experienced, the notorious ‘Monkey Face’ provides a formidable challenge.2. Broughton Bluff
Located just east of Troutdale along the Sandy River, Broughton Bluff is an ideal spot for locals who wish to avoid long drives and indulges in climbing. The traverse routes range from easy to moderately difficult, and the mossy basalt columns give it a lush, verdant coat that adds to the charm.
3. Beacon Rock State Park
Just across the Columbia River from Hood River, Beacon Rock State Park in Washington is a classic spot. The climbing routes are bolted and built into the sheer face of an 848-foot basalt column, providing fantastic views of the Gorge in all its wind-swept glory.4. Mount Thielsen
If climbing Oregon’s highest peaks piques your interest, Mount Thielsen is your destination. While it’s not a traditional rock climbing spot, the thrilling scramble to the summit is invigorating and offers a panorama of the Cascade Range few can compare.5. Carver Bridge Cliff
A favourite among Portland climbers, Carver Bridge Cliff has a heart-stopping 100 feet of vertical and slightly overhanging basalt. A day pass from the Stone Cliff Inn is required for access, and beginners should buddy up with veteran climbers.6. Madras Boulders
A short drive to central Oregon gets you to the bouldering paradise that is Madras. With hundreds of routes over basalt rocks, it entices boulderers from all over. Make sure to bring your climbing shoes – these heights can be deceiving.7. Wolf Rock
Tucked away in an old-growth forest near McKenzie Bridge, Wolf Rock isn’t for the faint-hearted. It’s the largest monolith west of the Rockies and offers multi-pitch sport and trad climbing opportunities. Grab a kombucha from the local market for some added zing for your climbing routine!8. Rattlesnake Mountain
Situated near the picturesque town of Sweet Home, Rattlesnake Mountain accommodates climbers of varying experience levels with its basalt crags. The breath-taking views of the valley below are a sight to behold. Remember, it’s a good sport climbing locale, but not recommended for bouldering.9. Menagerie Wilderness
This pocket of untouched wilderness in the Willamette National Forest is perfect for those who love climbing in solitude. The Rooster Rock formation is a popular choice, but you’ll need to be adept at placing gear as there aren’t any bolted routes.10. Rocky Butte
Situated in urban Portland, Rocky Butte is a fun, accessible climbing spot for city dwellers. The area is known for its trad routes and bouldering options, and the best time to climb is during dry, clear days. Remember to clean up after yourself- let’s keep this city gem gleaming!So whether you’re a seasoned climber or just looking to try something new, there’s always a rock waiting for you in Oregon. From the basalt crags of the Columbia River Gorge to the towering peaks of Smith Rock State Park, our state offers a climbing experience that’s anything but ordinary. So grab your gear, make a plan, and see where these climbing spots take you. Who knows? You might just find your new favorite viewpoint.