Explore Oregon: Rock Climbing Spots for Beginners to Experts

The 10 Best Rock Climbing Destinations in Oregon for Climbers of Every Skill Level

Oregon is a land of rugged beauty, where towering cliffs overlook breath-taking views of wild forests, coastal expanses and serene desert landscapes. It’s a climber’s paradise, offering everything from challenging technical ascents to beginner-friendly climbs. Here are the 10 best rock climbing spots, ranked in no particular order, for every skill level in the gloriously diverse Oregon.

1. Smith Rock State Park

Located near Terrebonne, Smith Rock is hailed as the birthplace of sport climbing in America. This natural playground offers over a thousand climbing routes, ranging from modest beginner climbs to challenging multi-pitch ascents. The popular ‘Morning Glory Wall’ is ideal for novices, while the ‘Monkey Face’ route tests the skill of even the most seasoned climbers. Always pack plenty of water and remember, the park charges for day use.

2. Broughton Bluff

Rather conveniently located just off the I-84 near Troutdale, Broughton Bluff offers fantastic crag rock climbing amidst the lush greens of Lewis and Clark State Park. The climbing here mainly consists of sport routes, but there are some noteworthy traditional climbs as well. Locals often start their morning at Sugarpine Drive-In for a hearty bite before hitting the wall.

3. Rocky Butte

This urban crag located in the heart of Portland is perfect for those seeking a climbing experience within city limits. Rocky Butte’s basalt columns offer a great exercise for traditional climbing and top roping, but do expect some crowd, especially on weekends.

“Embrace your inner adventurer with Oregon’s diverse rock climbing spots! Novice or expert, there’s a cliff waiting just for you. Only in Oregon, folks!”

4. Rooster Rock State Park

On the eastern end of the Columbia River Gorge, Rooster Rock State Park flaunts three miles of rock climbing, mostly made up of bouldering and top-rope routes. Picking up a cinnamon roll from nearby Shirley’s Tippy Canoe is a perfect way to wind down after a day of climbing.

5. French’s Dome

Situated near Mt. Hood, French’s Dome offers a unique climbing experience. Its basalt amphitheater provides several sport routes and trad climbs, most notably the “Prime Rib” route. Remember to wear sturdy shoes – the approach to the rock face can be quite slippery due to moss.

6. Wolf Rock

Not for the faint-hearted, Wolf Rock near Springfield is a massive monolith featuring crack climbs and demanding multi-pitch routes. This should only be attempted by experienced climbers and always with a guide. Don’t forget to pack a lunch and plenty of hydration.

7. Flagstone

Tucked away between the towns of Bend and Redmond is Flagstone, a high desert climbing jewel. Known for its roped climbs and bouldering problems, Flagstone is perfect for climbers of all skill levels, but the bouldering opportunities here particularly favor those with a penchant for problem-solving.

8. Rat Cave

Located a stone’s throw away from Eugene, Rat Cave is a hidden gem offering short and stout bolted lines that cater to intermediate and expert climbers. This spot is best visited in the summer to avoid the dampness that makes the walls slippery.

9. Madrone Wall Park

Only miles away from Happy Valley lies Madrone Wall Park, offering climbs on basalt cliffs for all experience levels. Accessible year-round, make sure you respect closure periods for peregrine falcon nesting.

10. Callahans

Nestled in Southern Oregon, the Callahans has a legendary status among local climbers owing to its pristine climbing routes and breathtaking views. With its tough cruxes, this spot suits only the more experienced climbers.

Enjoy the joys of ascending some of Oregon’s most stunning rock formations. Always remember, climbing is not just a test of physical tenacity, but also a way to appreciate the towering cliffs and dramatic landscapes that paint the canvas of our beautiful state. Stay safe and cherish the climb, fellow Oregonians!

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