Breathtaking Oregon Rock Climbing Destinations Tailored for Every Skill Level
Ah, Oregon, where the Pacific Northwest meets the mystique of the high desert. Famed for its lush forests, craggy coastline, and the towering volcanic peaks of the Cascades, Oregon encapsulates and then transcends every climber’s dreams. Below lies a curated list of the most breathtaking rock climbing destinations in Oregon, each singular in their beauty and challenge.1. Smith Rock State Park
Situated near Terrebonne in Central Oregon, Smith Rock State Park is claimed by many to be where sport climbing began in the US. There’s something for every climbing enthusiast, from towering multi-pitch climbs to high-quality single pitch sport routes. For beginners, ‘5-Gallon Buckets’ on the Morning Glory Wall is a must-climb.2. Rocky Butte
Just a stone’s throw from downtown Portland, Rocky Butte offers high-quality urban cragging with fantastic views of the cityscape. Home to about 150 sport and traditional climbs, favorites here include ‘Month of Sundays’ and ‘Coyote’s Raindance.’ Be sure to check for seasonal climbing closures due to nesting falcons in the spring.3. Broughton Bluff
Located along the Lewis and Clark trail in Troutdale, Broughton Bluff provides a serene natural climbing experience. This riverside crag is especially cherished by trad climbers and for its imposing basalt walls. Remember, the nearby Columbia River Gorge is famed for wind – bring a solid jacket.
4. Trout Creek
With its classic columnar basalt cliffs, Trout Creek near Madras is perfect for those ready to test their mettle. Routes here tend to be strenuous and are ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers. Clinging to classics like ‘JC Superstar’ with a view of the surrounding farmland is truly an Oregon experience.5. Beacon Rock
Beacon Rock, on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, is a monolith that commands respect. The South Face provides some of the toughest and longest traditional routes in the Pacific Northwest, so come equipped with skills and gear. Remember, it’s in Washington, but us Oregon folks love it just the same.6. Flagstone
Bend is filled to the brim with outdoor enthusiasts and Flagstone is their secret. This high desert crag delivers some sharp but superb sport climbing on volcanic tuff rock. The ‘Flagstone Fitness Test,’ a steep 5.13c, is a well-known warrior’s challenge.7. Skinner Butte
Lying in the heart of Eugene, Skinner Butte Park offers plentiful climbing routes on basalt columns. The columnar basalt here is excellent for training – the Eugene Skinner is a classic. The park’s friendly atmosphere makes it a beautiful rendezvous spot for climbers in the Willamette Valley.8. Menagerie Wilderness
Hidden within the Sweet Home Ranger District of the Willamette National Forest is the Menagerie Wilderness. Its absurd, fantastical rock spires present great multi-pitch traditional climbing. The ‘Rooster Rock’ spire, with its breathtaking ‘South Face’ route, is a cherished gem.9. Wolf Rock
Wolf Rock, the largest monolith in the state near McKenzie Bridge, is a beacon for elite trad climbers. The climbing here is adventurous and will push your limits. Routes like ‘Dances with Clams’ offer spicy climbing with unforgettable exposure. This is not a place for beginners or the faint-hearted.10. Madrone Wall
Once a quarry and then closed for years, the Madrone Wall in Clackamas County along the Clackamas River is back. A mix of sport and trad routes on blocky basalt, this wall is worth a visit for Portland climbers. Be sure to try ‘Manic Depressive Direct’, a classic steep sport route.Oregon’s diverse landscape offers a world of rock climbing reality to suit any rock rat’s fantasy. From the familiar to the wild and exotic, each of these climbing destinations whispers a unique invitation to embrace the challenge of the climb and the beauty of Oregon. Climb on, friends! It’s a high time to explore the high places.