Inside The Crags: Oregon’s Rock Climbing Destinations for Every Skill Level
Welcome to the craggy world of Oregon! Home to sublime climber-approved rock faces, towering volcanic peaks, and river-carved gorges. It’s no surprise that this very land inspired the rugged DNA of Oregonians and keeps our tradition of outdoor camaraderie alive.
1. Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne
Fondly referred to as the birthplace of sport climbing in the US, Smith Rock State Park is the Vatican for climbers. With 1,800 climbing routes that range from beginner to professional, it’s perfect for all ability levels. Remember to stop by at Redpoint Climbers Supply for gear and local advice. Try The Dihedrals area for beginner-friendly routes.2. Mount Thielsen, Diamond Lake
Nicknamed the “Lightning Rod of the Cascades,” Mount Thielsen provides thrilling traditional climbing routes. The West Ridge route is especially satisfying, if somewhat challenging. It’s a great choice for climbers looking to up their game while enjoying exhilarating views.
3. Beacon Rock State Park, Skamania
A beginner’s paradise, Beacon Rock offers numerous top-rope climbs and bouldering areas. Beacon Rock’s basalt columns tend to be slippery, so choose your climbing shoes wisely. It’s worth taking a break at the Beacon Rock Cafe afterward for a hearty post-climb meal.4. Broughton Bluff, Troutdale
May to November, Broughton Bluff remains a climber’s hot spot. With more than 90 climbing routes, you will find opportunities for every skill level here. Get your climbing gear from Next Adventure, located in the heart of Portland, for personalized service and expert advice.5. Wolf Rock, McKenzie River Valley
Being the largest monolith in Oregon, Wolf Rock suits those with solid climbing skills. This destination is secluded and the routes are difficult – a test for experienced climbers only. Remember to respect the peregrine falcons that call Wolf Rock home; avoid climbing from February 1 to July 15 during their nesting period.6. Madrone Wall Park, Clackamas County
A delightful space that only recently reopened for climbers. Madrone Wall has approximately 100 routes, mostly intermediate level. Check in with the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife for access details, as the park is occasionally closed for falcon nesting.7. Rooster Rock State Park, Columbia River Gorge
Famous for its nude beach, Rooster Rock is also a climber’s haven. East of Rooster Rock, sandstone walls give beginners plenty of practice and fun. Be wary; sandstone is delicate and climbing after rain can cause damage.8. Monkey Face, Smith Rock State Park
The towering Monkey Face is a bucket-list climb for many. Experienced climbers should challenge themselves with the legendary “Just Do It” route, one of the first 5.14c routes in America. The climb provides a spectacular view of Central Oregon’s High Desert and the Cascade Range.9. French’s Dome, Mount Hood
Just west of Mount Hood, French’s Dome is a volcanic plug offering about 20 routes. It’s a fantastic location for intermediate climbers during the dry summer and fall months. Remember to pack moleskin from Charlie’s Mountain View, as blisters are a common complaint here.10. Rattlesnake Rocks, Mount Hood National Forest
Perfect for boulderers of all levels, Rattlesnake Rocks hosts numerous routes on its granite boulders. Visit Mt. Hood General Store beforehand for a well-earned ice cream and trail advice.There you have it – a route for every climber, from those taking their first steps atop boulders to seasoned pros looking for the next big challenge. Here in Oregon, we’re blessed with a landscape that pushes us, inspires us, and welcomes us home at the end of every adventurous day. So get out there, explore every nook, crag, and crevice, and most importantly, keep climbing!