Oregon’s Hidden Gem: The Alvord Desert
If there’s one thing that a true Oregonian cherishes, it’s our state’s vast array of diverse landscapes. From the breathtaking vistas of the Columbia River Gorge to the lush greenery of Willamette Valley, we are lucky to call this place home. And as someone who’s been exploring the Beaver State for a long time, I can tell you there are few things as exhilarating as unearthing the quiet beauty of a place unfamiliar to most. Oregon’s best-kept secret, nestled deep within the heart of Harney County, fits this bill perfectly: The Alvord Desert.
A Mirage in Eastern Oregon
While most tourists are lured to the endless appeal of our renowned Crater Lake or the coastal charms of Cannon Beach, locals who crave the road less traveled venture out east, where Oregon’s ‘Wild West’ resides. Here in the High Desert, the rustic Steens Mountain rears its mighty head, overlooking a patchwork of sagebrush plains, wetlands, and the pièce de résistance – the Alvord Desert.
Alvord Desert – The Land of Ancient Lakes
The Alvord Desert is a stunning anomaly, an otherworldly and seemingly endless expanse of cracked, white earth spread over 70 miles – a far cry from our beloved Douglas Firs or the wet “Webfoot” weather west of the Cascades. This arid playa, a dry lake bed, holds the ghost of an ancient freshwater lake, which once quenched the thirst of mammoths and muskrats thousands of years ago.
For those who want to trade their rain boots for desert boots, a trip to the Alvord Desert will test your taste for adventure. And like any Oregon adventure, it’s best commenced by popping into a local haunt to fuel up. Fields Station – some hundred miles or so up off of Highway 205 – is no swanky Portland coffee shop, but they serve up one mean milkshake and Oregon’s tastiest homemade burger.
Explore It Your Way
The striking emptiness of the Alvord Desert offers eye-popping vistas and space – perfect for land sailing or setting up a lunar landscape for the photographer in you. Highly recommended is to venture into the desert at night. The absence of light pollution out here in one of Oregon’s darkest corners rewards you with a breathtaking vista of the Milky Way unfolding above.
Now, throw in gazing at the stars from the luxury of a hot spring, and you have a quintessential Oregon experience. Alvord Hot Springs, with its rustic soaking pools gazing out into the playa, are just the ticket for such an endeavor. These geothermal springs are on private property, but for a small fee, you’re in for a soak that rivals any Swedish sauna.
While out there, try to hike the Steens Mountain. It’s not your typical stroll in the Mount Hood wilderness, but its summit gifts you a view of four states on a clear day – a sharp reminder of how vast and beautiful the Pacific Northwest truly is.
The Quirky Realities
Visiting the Alvord Desert is not for the faint-hearted. The harsh desert conditions coupled with its remote location may pose a challenge. There are no Fred Meyers or Dutch Bros. Coffee here – it’s just you and the open desert. You’ll need to pack everything you need, and a reliable vehicle wouldn’t go amiss either.
Admittedly, the isolation can be intense. There’s a peculiar peace to the silence, but the hum of the solitary Borax Lake Hot Springs windmill or the impromptu community chatter on the airwaves of Harney County’s Riddle Mountain Radio can be a comforting soundtrack here.
The weather here tosses up its own little curveballs. It’s hard to imagine record-breaking heat in Oregon, otherwise notorious for its steady drizzles and overcast skies. But the Alvord Desert, tucked away in its high desert nook, has seen the state’s highest-ever recorded temperature of 119ºF.
Fall in Love with Oregon’s Best-Kept Secret
Ours is a state abundant with natural wonders, tucked away villages, and good old Oregonian quirkiness. The Alvord Desert might not get top billing when it comes to Oregon’s natural attractions, but that’s part of the appeal. It’s a hidden gem that adds to Oregon’s mystique. When you sit on the cracked desert floor and gaze into the starlit night, the enchantment of this land hits you like a gust of high desert wind.
If you’re an Oregonian with an unquenchable thirst for exploring, or a traveler looking to savor the less-frequented nooks of our beloved state, maybe it’s time you pack up your provisions and journey to one of Oregon’s least known but most spectacular landscapes. You’ll uncover a piece of Oregon that few have seen.
And so, the Alvord Desert beckons. Its story, its allure, and its solitude invite you to journey. They promise an unforgettable experience and the chance to know Oregon, our coveted Beaver State, just a little bit deeper.