Insider’s Guide to Oregon’s Epic Rock Climbing Destinations, from Novice to Pro
Ah, Oregon, the Pacific Northwest’s adventure paradise. From our lush forests to our high desert wonderland, we’ve got enough outdoor beauty to last a lifetime. Now, let’s dive into the stony heart of Oregon’s exceptional rock climbing scene.1. Smith Rock State Park
No rock climbing conversation in Oregon would be complete without mentioning Smith Rock State Park in Terrebonne. Climbers from around the globe flock to Smith Rock, fondly known as “the birthplace of modern American sport climbing”. The diverse range of routes means that Smith offers something for every skill level. Remember to wear a helmet; falling rocks are common here.2. Skinner Butte
Nestled in Eugene, Skinner Butte’s Columns have a rich climbing history dating back to the 1950s. The basalt columns make it perfect for practicing your skills, especially if you’re just getting started. For a break, Eugene locals often recommend a chill-down session at the nearby Ninkasi Brewing for its legendary craft beers.3. Madrone Wall Park
A stone’s throw away from Portland, Madrone Wall Park boasts more than just climbing routes. It’s a space for natural oasis with birdwatching opportunities and a picturesque stream. After a long day of bouldering here, Oregonians often unwind at Boring Brewing Co – don’t be fooled by the name; their ales are anything but!
4. Wolf Rock
Wolf Rock, Oregon’s largest free-standing monolith, offers some of the best traditional climbing routes in the state. Located near Eugene in the Cascade foothills, its steep faces offer a true experience of adventure climbing. Weather can change pretty quickly there, so pack appropriate clothing and gear.5. Rocky Butte
Portland climbers love Rocky Butte for its urban accessibility. Perfect for novices and intermediate climbers, this old quarry has some marvelous pitch routes. Locals recommend starting the day off early for this climb, followed by brunch at the locally cherished Cadillac Café.6. Rattlesnake Mountain
Located in central Oregon not far from Bend, Rattlesnake Mountain offers a variety of climbing opportunities. It features a mix of traditional and sport climbing routes, perfect for honing the skills of an intermediate climber. Swing by Bend’s Deschutes Brewery after, it’s an absolute must.7. Broughton Bluff
Found in Lewis and Clark State Park, Broughton Bluff offers fantastic views of the Columbia Gorge. With more than 100 diverse routes, climbers can pick their challenge. Watch out for Peregrine falcons and make sure to respect nesting season!8. French’s Dome
Popular among the Portland climbing community, French’s Dome near Mt. Hood is a beautiful basalt crag. Late summer and fall are the best times to visit, due to wet weather the rest of the year. Pick up some famous Joe’s Donuts in nearby Sandy for a morning energy boost.9. Trout Creek
Famed for its clean vertical cracks, Trout Creek near Madras offers a real challenge for the experienced climber. This is also a nesting area for golden eagles, so be sure to check the seasonal closures before planning your climb.10. Flagstone
Right in Central Oregon’s high desert, Flagstone is a bouldering utopia. Though it might seem unassuming, the scattered boulders hold some of the best problems in the state. Don’t forget to visit the locally-beloved Sisters Coffee Company after your climb for a worthy pick-me-up.So there we have it, folks. From the towering majesty of Smith Rock to the serene beauty of Madrone Wall Park, Oregon’s climbing scene has something to challenge and inspire everyone. Get geared up, embrace the adventure, and remember – stay safe and leave no trace. Happy climbing, Oregon.