A Local’s Guide to Oregon’s Rock Climbing Destinations for Every Skill Level
Oregon, with its iconic landmarks, scenic trails, and diverse geology, is home to some of America’s best rock climbing areas. From the volcanic landscapes of Central Oregon to the sandstone cliffs of the Columbia Gorge, there’s something for every climber.
1. Smith Rock State Park
Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon’s high desert is heralded as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing. It boasts a vast range of routes, from the novice-friendly “5 Gallon Buckets” to the challenging “East Face” on Monkey Face pillar. The local Bend Rock Gym offers excellent training opportunities for beginners before hitting the rocks.2. Beacon Rock State Park
Overlooking the Columbia River, Beacon Rock’s cliffs are a favorite among Portland climbers. The strenuous “SE Corner” route showcases the park’s columnar basalt formations. However, climbing here is seasonal due to Peregrine falcon nesting, so it’s advisable to check with the park ahead of time.
3. Mount Thielsen
Equipped with a lightning rod summit, Mount Thielsen is an adrenaline rush for daring climbers. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but experienced climbers can revel in the exhilarating knife-like ridge ascents. Local guide services from the charming town of Bend offer guided trips and safety training.4. Broughton Bluff
For a quick climbing fix without straying far from the city, Broughton Bluff in Lewis and Clark State Park, east of Portland, is a popular choice. There’s a variety of basalt climbing routes, from beginner to advanced. Also, for a unique local treat after a day’s climb, dropping by Edgefield, a nearby historical hotel, for a hearty meal is highly recommended.5. Rattlesnake Mountain
Located in Polk County, Rattlesnake Mountain is a great place for bouldering enthusiasts. Its grassy foothills and oak woodland offer relaxed, low-level climbing on high-quality sandstone boulders scattered throughout. Early spring is the best time to visit, with the local flora in bloom.6. Wolf Rock
Just northeast of Eugene in the Willamette National Forest, Wolf Rock is a solid mass of natural columnar basalt. Routes here are physically demanding and require advanced traditional climbing skills. Redpoint Climbers Supply in nearby Springfield can equip you with the necessary gear and local route maps.7. French’s Dome
For rain or shine climbing, French’s Dome near Mount Hood offers covered routes for climatic unpredictability. This volcanic bubble boasts numerous sport climbs. Remember to pack extra layers, as the weather can be a bit fickle up there.8. Tumalo Creek Climbing Area
Tucked just west of Bend, Tumalo Creek area is excellent for family-friendly climbing. With approachable routes alongside the scenic Tumalo Creek, it’s ideal for beginners and kids. Bend’s numerous craft beer breweries, such as Deschutes Brewery, are perfect for refuelling after a day of climbing.9. Skinner Butte
Skinner Butte, situated right in the heart of Eugene, is an urban climbing haven with a variety of top rope and lead routes. Climbers are occasionally treated to peregrine falcon sightings, a feathered highlight to any climb.10. Turkey Monster Rock
Turkey Monster Rock in the coastal Siuslaw National Forest provides an alternative challenge. This seaside boulder offers both coastal views and varied routes. A quick stop at Mo’s Seafood and Chowder in nearby Newport would round off a climbing trip here perfectly.When visiting these climbing paradises, remember to adhere to Leave No Trace principles. Respect the land, wildlife, and other climbers’ enjoyment of these wonderful spaces. Now, strap on your climbing shoes, pack your gear, and ascend to the heights of Oregon’s beauty. After all, the best views come after the hardest climbs.